Miami Beach, Dec. 1 (US): Louis Vuitton’s first US fashion show has turned into a somber but eccentric tribute to pioneering designer Virgil Abloh days after his death.
The menswear Miami event, an unofficial kickoff for the prestigious Art Basel fair, has been in the pipeline for months. Guests were transported by yacht to the star party, which was held on an island.
Celebrities in attendance, including Kim Kardashian West and her daughter North, Yi, rapper formerly known as Kanye West, model Bella Hadid, Joe Jonas, Maluma and Pharrell, arrived in silver LV speedboats, the Associated Press (AP) reported. elegant.
Kid Cody and Erica Badu performed after a party. “Hey Virgil,” she exclaimed at the beginning of her set, and later said, “We want to see you fly.”
Abloh, who died Sunday after a long battle with cancer, was known for pushing boundaries as the head of the legendary French fashion house, thanks to his childlike curiosity and eagerness to instill a sense of fun. His unprecedented fusion of streetwear and haute couture made him one of the most popular taste makers.
The focal point of the show was the giant, low red hot air balloon spouting flames as Abloh’s voice was heard in the background.
Brand CEO Michael Burke said that Abloh’s wife and family want the show to continue. He just spoke to the young designer on Saturday night, describing the show’s inspiration as coming of sorts because “inspiring and empowering younger generations defined who it is.”
“We fancied it all and was amazed not to be here in person,” Burke said.
Models walked the winding runway, showcasing the collection featuring everything from neon-colored amphibians and aquatic looks with colorful fish backpacks to letterman-style school sweaters and a snowy bunny look with fur boots.
There was a sleek, matte black ensemble that looked like SWAT gear, olive military uniforms with belted coats and even the brightly colored Southern Belle-style skirts. The prints included pigment colors and an iconic checkered logo rebuilt into new color patterns.
While the clothes were like Abloh’s – playful, colorful and vibrant – the mood was gloomy. During and after the show, many of the audience wiped tears, stood up to hug each other or offer some comfort.
The scattered applause at the end was embarrassing. Unlike most shows, no one got up to mingle or talk, but instead sat in utter silence.
The designer’s traditional final arc was never coming and never coming back, and as fireworks lit up the Miami skyline, the audience seemed painfully aware of his absence.
Instead, the show returned to a bold hot air balloon as the designer’s voice said “Life is short,” warning, “You can’t waste even a day subscribing to what someone thinks you can do in exchange for knowing what you can do”—a kind of anthem. Behind him rallied a generation of young admirers.
The Lamont Spears traveled from Atlanta only to the show, wearing an LV hooded fuzzy coat and sweatshirt with Abloh’s image.
“It’s a very sad moment, but we have to celebrate his life and we have to keep pushing because he made a way for us to keep moving forward and stay confident,” said the 35-year-old. “He showed me that I can.”
In 2018, Abloh became the first black man to serve as Louis Vuitton’s menswear director in the history of the French design house. He grew up outside of Chicago, where from his first generation his mother taught Ghanaian-American dressmakers to sew.
New York designer Memsor Kamarake, who watched Abloh’s premiere in Paris, specifically shaved for the latest tribute, saying through tears after the fireworks, “Now I felt like I could finally grieve him.”
“Blacks are often portrayed through pain, through struggle, which is why it was so important for him to take advantage of this childlike joy,” Kamaraki said.
Above the red carpet leading up to the outdoor after-party, the sky was lit up with red dots dancing in different configurations before coming together to say “Virgil was here”.
Abloh, who founded his brand Off-White in 2013, has had a wide creative presence outside of clothing. His “dollar gallon” statue was unveiled this week during Art Basel, a commentary on the impact of advertising on the people who can be affected.
He also designed furniture for IKEA, and refillable bottles for Evian and Big Mac cartons for McDonald’s. His work has been shown at the Louvre, the Gagosian and the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago.
Abloh was a prominent influence in street fashion. Trained with Ye at LVMH brand Fendi, he was the rapper’s creative director and earned a Grammy nomination as Artistic Director for Ye-Jay-Z’s 2011 album “Watch the Throne”.
“I think it will be the most important moment in LV history,” said David Filipucci, a 21-year-old who traveled from Holland to attend the show.
“LV at the moment is Virgil. He made it even more special.”
MI