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Milan, Feb. 24 (UNA): With Europe bracing for the winds of a possible war in Ukraine, the Italian fashion world continued the Milan Fashion Week that brought back Russian buyers two years later and eased pandemic travel restrictions.
An agreement with the government brokered by the Italian National Fashion Chamber allowed Russians who had been vaccinated with the Sputnik V bullet to enter the country if they traveled for work and were subject to frequent rapid tests for the coronavirus.
They arrived on the first day of performances on Wednesday as tensions mount over Russian military tensions in Ukraine. The Associated Press (AP) reported that invitations to the show were also sent to Ukrainian buyers, but they did not turn up.
Creative director Kim Jones filled the front row of Fendi with VIPs including Rita Ora and her partner, Academy Award-winning screenwriter Taika Waititi, Swedish pop star Nene Cheri and her daughter Mabel, fashion influencers Chiara Ferragni and Leonie Hahn, and many more.
Along with a long list of Friends of Fendi adorned from head to toe in the label’s designs, entrants presented a parade of Fendi ready-to-wear rarely seen on the runway.
Show before the show included a soft fur interior, shearling-cut leather shorts with matching jackets, and playful open-back mini dresses and long chiffon numbers. High-heeled shoes structured on a mini-tower from Double Fs and bags emblazoned with gold-tone Fendi lettering completed the look featured on this double runway.
The latest Jones Fendi collection plays with sheer chiffon fabrics with tweed, bringing a playful touch to the day and a fresh, sexual touch to the evenings. Jones said he drew inspiration from two designer collections by the late Karl Lagerfeld that look stark contrast on the surface: Spring and Summer 1986, which featured geometric prints and stitching, and the sheer lightness of fall-winter 2000.
For Fendi’s Fall-Winter 2022 collection signed by Jones, chiffons were patched alongside ruffled outer stitching in day dresses with matching pants, worn with short fur, or ruffled tops with slacks. Bright orange gloves or bags, secured with sea green foam, offset pastel tones.
Black and white check pants and a pencil skirt offered the first hint of structure, paired with chiffon shirts and wrapped in a furry cloud. The look is made more strict with tight corsets that are worn over men’s shirts with women’s sets.
Additions such as large flat pockets and attached added a utilitarian touch that worked on chiffon dresses along with corsets or as an embellishment to a skirt or trousers. As the color palette darkened to navy, brown, and gray, Jones introduced the same silhouettes of leather, tweed, and denim. Some were softened with chiffon ruffle details along the seam.
Silvia Venturini Fendi designed the accessories, including three versions of the Fendi Baguette – in cashmere, shearling and mink – to celebrate the bag’s 25th anniversary. Her daughter, Delfina Delettres, designed the jewelry, including oversized ear cuffs.
“It’s a wardrobe designed for every aspect of a woman’s life, and for every generation,” Jones said.
From J-Lo to Zendaya, Fausto Puglisi wants to unite generations of attractive and powerful women with his new Roberto Cavalli collection.
Puglisi’s first winter fashion show as the brand’s creative director, she combined sheer gowns with leather straps that gave a hint of bondage, along with younger silhouettes, including black and animal print split leather bodysuits, as well as playful mini skirts with Patterned pleats.
“I want to respect Roberto’s legacy,” Bugliese told reporters. “Never before has there been such a desire to go back to the early 2000s. At the same time, there is a desire to move forward. ”
Puglisi did so with an accent on daywear that included bright green British Kelly-patterned suits, whimsically dressed up with green animal print leggings and gloves. Capes in the brand’s trademark animal prints were ruffled at the front, with a back fringe along the runway. Handcrafted leather florals embellished with shoes and dresses are inspired by Capodimonte faience.
“We’re coming out of a very sad period of isolation, and this woman wants to have fun,” Pugliese added.
The Alessandro Dell’Acqua collection for the upcoming season provides seamless transitions from womenswear to menswear, showing how closely it relates to his No. 21 brand.
The silhouette of a woman is determined by the shape of the corset, which tightens the waist, giving shape to jackets and coats, as well as dresses and knitwear. The skirts seem to have been made from men’s pants that are lengthless on the inside, creating a pair of sexy zip-up slits. He said in presentation notes that the asymmetrical cut-out dresses, with sequins skewed from small to large, were part of the designer’s exploration of vintage fashion icons.
Unisex sheer mohair pullover sweaters with a drawstring top for better definition for him or her.
A one-of-a-kind piece, a recycled fur coat is given new life with an overlay of black tulle. Men’s overcoats were large in size and military in cut; Long pleated skirts are an alternative to pants, which are worn with a Hawaiian-print shirt with couture details.
“What I cared about most was updating the language in order to have the female and male characters better reflect the times, which are still shaped despite the inaccuracies,” Dell’Acqua said in the notes.
The second category of the We Made in Italy campaign to promote color designers living and working in Italy showcased their winter collections alongside distinctive examples of Italian design at the ADI Design Museum.
Fallylah Nyny Ryke Goungou has infused her brand Nyny Ryke with a palette of colors, combining West African woven textiles from her native Togo with dramatic mesh accents and macrame threads for a look that suits any Generation Z and Millennials alike. “I’ve been really explosive this year!” Goungou shouted in her parking lot near a red Ferrari.
Moroccan-born Zainab Hazem has created everyday abayas for the modest but assertive Muslim woman who wants to be covered yet still show elegance and be seen. Sheetal Shah’s unisex look for her label Curious Grid featured jackets made from handwoven fabrics sourced from indigenous India and using a quilting technique with recycled wool. The comfy Romy Calzado in patchwork jersey had a soft, vibrant camouflage look with strong shoulders. Judith Porsito created Saint Jermain’s signature Saint Jermain boots with a tall pointed toe to recall the famous Plague Doctor Venetian mask from which her trademark embroidery detail originated.
“These five great designers have grown so much,” said Michelle Ngonmo, one of the creative forces behind the campaign and founder of Afro Fashion Week in Milan. “I think it’s a good start and the Italian fashion industry is really starting to see the creativity of the POC (People of Color) being part of the Italian fashion industry.”
Ennio Capasa has taken the fashion crowd backstage, behind the grueling curtain of Arcimboldi Theater for set 0 of his new fashion project bearing his family’s name.
Capassa, whose brother Carlo heads the Milan Fashion Council, is well known in fashion circles for his influential national costume brand, which he abandoned six years ago when his financial partnerships went awry. Even Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri showed up to be seated in the front row upon returning to the Capasa runway.
“The in-between is an incredible luxury because it allows you the distance to observe what you want to keep, and what you want to leave,” Capasa said before the show as models received their finishing touches nearby. “I understood that I wanted to keep the timeless tailoring. Several of my friends call to say, ‘Your jacket is still very modern.’ And I wanted to keep that. But I left some of the stiffness that was prevalent at the time, to the ’90s.”
While his previous brand had uniform quality, and strong in deconstructed black and white tailoring, Capasa said he wanted the Capasa brand to recognize dramatically changing times by creating more individual looks.
The collection included a look like a mini double-breasted pea coat to appeal to members of Generation Z as well as Gen-Xers and beyond. The coats feature a stunning leather belt and buckle diagonally secured at chest level.
The group was heavily influenced by the music of the 70s, from rock to disco. David Bowie-style suits with wide shoulders, androgynous jackets and wrap dresses featured a faded disco feel, especially when paired with silver shoes. Capasa used a touch more color—there were purple suits, mustard yellow details and bright poppy green—than he did during the national costume days,
The line between men’s and women’s clothing was fluid. The jewelry reflected the type of individuality seen on the street, and was not alike, and each was a little further away, including body chains or crystals applied in place of tops, and earrings that hung like rims with a softly silver rim.
HF